Pattern of the Month

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Aged 2 (Aged 4, Aged 6).

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 76 (80, 84) stitches, and work in single k1/p1 rib for 1½ inches, increasing 1 stitch in the centre of the last row.
[77 (81, 85) sts.]

Change to no 8 (4mm) needles and working in stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row, work the main pattern as follows:

Work 4 rows in main shade A, then join in ecru E.
5th row: knit 3 (5, 7) A, * 1E, 9A; repeat from * to last 4 (6-8) stitches; 1E, 3 (5, 7) A.

Continue in pattern as now set (carrying contrast E along at the side), without shaping until work measures 8¼ (9, 9¾ ) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Armhole shaping:
Cast off 3 (3, 2) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows and 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 (10, 14)rows.
Cut yarn and leave the remaining 63 (65, 67) stitches on a holder.

Front

Work as for back, but on the 1st row of the armhole shaping, also shape the neckline at same time thus:
Place the centre 15 (17, 19) stitches onto a double-pointed needle and complete the side sections separately, working armhole shaping as for back and leaving the extra stitches unworked at the neck edge on every alternate row as foils:
for 1st size: 6 stitches 4 times;
for 2nd size: 6 stitches twice and 4 stitches 3 times; and
for 3rd size: 4 stitches 3 times and 3 stitches 4 times,
placing these stitches onto the end of the double-pointed needle with the centre stitches.
After completing both sides, you have 63 (65, 67) stitches remaining at the centre. Now place all these stitches onto a holder.

Sleeves

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and A, cast on 40 (42, 42) stitches and work in single rib for 4 cm [l ins) working 7(7, 9) increases evenly spaced along the last row. [47 (49, 51) sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and beginning with a knit row work main pattern as follows:
Work 4 rows stocking stitch in A then join in E.
5th row: knit 3 (4, 5) A, * 1 E, 9 A, repeat from * to last 4 (5, 6). stitches; 1 E, 3 (4, 5) A.

Continue in pattern as now set but increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row, then every following 8th row 5 (5, 6) times more working the extra stitches into the pattern.

Continue on 59 (61, 65) stitches until work measures approximately 9¾ (10½, 11¼) inches from the beginning, having worked 12 rows more than on the back up to armhole.

Top shaping:
Work as for armhole shaping of back then place the remaining 45 (45, 47) stitches onto a holder.

Yoke

Using the circular needle (working backwards and forwards in rows) and A, and having all right sides facing, knit 43 (43, 45) stitches of the left sleeve slip the next stitch, knit the remaining stitch of the sleeve together with the first stitch of the front, then pass the slipped stitch over; then continue working the stitches of the front, then those of the right sleeve, then those of the back - but always working the double decrease over the last 2 stitches of a section and the 1st of next section.
Purl 1 row in A, but decreasing 4 (2, 2) stitches evenly across the stitches of each sleeve, and 4 (2, 0) stitches evenly across the back, and 4 (2, 0) stitches evenly across the front.

You have 194 (206, 218) stitches: the edge stitch at the beginning and end is shown on chart.
The 2 rows just worked correspond to the first 2 rows shown in A at the beginning of the chart.

Now start working the pattern following the charts 1 2 or 3 (at end of section) for the size you are making, and working the decreases as indicated on the chart.
For the decreases worked before the pine-tree motif work, ssk (slip 1, k1, pass the slipped stitch over), and for the decreases after the motif work k2tog.

[Editor's Note: When you work a decrease k2tog, the decreased stitch leans to the right. When you ssk, the stitch leans to the left. The instructions above are telling you to work the decreases so they look symmetrical around the motifs.]

After the 20th row of the chart you have 98 (110, 122) stitches.
Knit 1 row row in ecru, working 12 (16, 20) decreases evenly spaced.
[86 (94, 102) sts]

Now work pattern from Chart 4 (below), beginning with a purl row; pattern fits correctly for all sizes, with 2 end stitches.

After the last row in A shown on the chart, knit 1 more row in A, then purl 1 row in A working 12 (16, 20) decreases.

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and continue on the remaining 74 (78, 82) stitches; work 5 rows in single rib.

Cast off in rib.

To make up

Join short armhole seams; join left back seam and sides of yoke and neckband.
Join side and sleeves matching the pattern.

Materials

DK 50g balls:
Sweater:
3 (4, 4) in main colour thistle (A)
1 ball each in burgundy (B), crepuscule (C), almond (D), and ecru (E)

Beret:
1 in main colour (A) and smaller amounts in each of the other 4 sweater colours

One pair each of No 11 (3mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles, plus a circular needle No 8 (4mm) for the yoke.
A set of 4 No 8 (4mm) double pointed needles for the beret.

Tension

23 sts x 28 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit: aged 2 (4, 6)
actual size:
26 (27½, 29) inches - measurement
shown in cm on diagram.

Beret - one size.

Abbreviations:

k: knit
p: purl
increase: knit twice into a stitch
decrease: knit two stitches together.
k2tog: knit two stitches together (through front loops - decreases 1 stitch "right leaning")
ssk: slip, slip, knit - is equivalent to slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (decreases 1 stitch "left leaning").
m1: make 1 - increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying between stitch just worked and following stitch, and knitting into the back of it.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a lofty 100% wool Shetland type yarn with a length of 140 yards (128 meters) per 50g ball, indicating a light weight double knitting yarn.

A replacement option might be Rowan's ever-popular Felted Tweed DK coming in at 191 yards (175 meters) 75% wool/alpaca - 25% rayon/viscose.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.

Beret

Begin at the outer edge (ribbed head band) and work towards the crown.

Cast on 80 stitches using the double-pointed needles.
Arrange the stitches onto 3 needles and with the 4th work in rounds of k1/p1 rib for 3 rounds.
Then work in rounds of stocking stitch and start the shaping.
1st round: * k5, then make 1 by picking up the loop lying between needles and knitting it through the back loops - referred to as m1; repeat from * to end. [96 sts]

Now work from Chart 5, then continue in A for a further 4 rounds.

Now start to decrease:
26th round: [k7, k2tog] 16 times.
Work 6 rounds on the remaining 128 stitches, then start working from Chart 6.

After working the 3 zig-zag pattern rows in B, knit 1 round in E without shaping, then on next round in E work 8 decreases evenly spaced.
[120 stitches.]
Now start the motifs; there are 8 motifs with 14 stitches in E between them on the 1st round of motifs.
Work the decreases as indicated on chart: 1 decrease before and after each motif and 6 decreases round in all; when motifs are completed 24 stitches remain.
26th round: [k3tog] 6 times.

Cut yarn, pass end through remaining stitches, draw up tightly and sew securely.

Sew in any ends and add a pompom as required.

Instructions for her ribbed cardigan

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back

Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 62 / 68 / 74 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Change to No 3 (6½ mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k2, * p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p2, * k1, p2; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: k2, * p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: p2, * drop the next stitch down 3 rows down, then knit into the stitch together with the 3 loops above it as one stitch, p2; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Back measures 14 / 14½ / 14½ inches down the centre.

With right side facing and keeping the pattern correct, shape armholes by casting off 3 / 4 / 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 48 / 52 / 88 stitches remain

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Back measures 22 / 22½ / 22½ inches down the centre.

With right side facing and keeping the pattern correct, shape shoulders by casting off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 8 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off the remaining 18 / 20 / 22 stitches.

Left Front

Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 29 / 32 / 35 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 3 (6½ mm) needles and work straight in the rib pattern as for the Back until the Front matches the Back at the side edge.

With right side facing, shape armhole and front edge as follows:

Next row: cast off 3 / 4 / 4 stitches; pattern to the last 2 stitches; k2tog.

Continue the shaping, by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning (armhole edge) of the next 4 / 4 / 4 alternate rows, and at the same time, shape the neck edge by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on every following 4th row.

When the armhole shapings are complete, keep this edge straight but continue shaping the front/neck edge on every following 4th row as before, until 15 / 16 / 18 stitches remain. Then work straight until Front matches Back at the armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 7 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 8 / 8 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

Right Front

Work to correspond with the left front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 32 / 35 / 35 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 3 (6½ mm) needles and work in the rib pattern as for the Back, shaping the sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 7th, and then every following 10th row until there are 44 / 47 / 47 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Sleeve seam measures 16½ / 16½ / 17 inches.

With right sides facing shape top by casting off 3 / 4 / 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 12 / 13 / 13 stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Do not press.

When making up, use flat edge to edge seams, and perhaps a toning 3 or 4ply yarn for the sewing

Front Border:
Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 8 stitches, and work a strip in k1/p1 rib, (adding buttonholes as below), to fit up the right front and all the way around the neck and down the left front when slightly stretched. Make 7 buttonsholes up the right side, the first to come ½ inch up from the lower edge, and the 7th to come just below the start of the neck shaping, with the other 5 spaced evenly between.
To make a buttonhole: rib 3, cast off 2, rib 3; then cast on 2 stitches over those cast off on the next row.
Sew the border in position as you go.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Carefully press the seams.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Chunky yarn:
17 / 18 / 19 x 2oz balls in colour "Water Green".

Pair each of No 5 (5½ mm) and No 3 (6½mm) needles.

7 buttons.

Tension

14sts and 18 rows to four inches on No 3 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
34-35 / 36-37 / 38-39 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 22½ / 23 / 23 inches;
sleeve seam: 16½ / 16½ / 17 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was a super chunky/bulky pure wool yarn.
It came in 2oz (57g) hanks at about 54 yards or 49 metres.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.

Instructions for his ribbed sweater

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back

**
Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 71 / 74 / 77 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Change to No 3 (6½ mm) needles and pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k2, * p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p2, * k1, p2; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: k2, * p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
4th row: p2, * drop the next stitch down 3 rows down, then knit into the stitch together with the 3 loops above it as one stitch, p2; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows form the pattern.

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Back measures 15 / 15½ / 15½ inches down the centre.

With right side facing and keeping the pattern correct, shape armholes by casting off 3 / 3 / 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 57 / 60 / 63 stitches remain.
**

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Back measures 24½ / 25 / 25 inches down the centre.

With right side facing and keeping the pattern correct, shape shoulders by casting off 8 / 9 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 9 / 9 / 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off the remaining 23 / 24 / 25 stitches.

Front

Work as for the Back from ** to ** .

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Front measures 21½ / 22 / 22 inches down the centre.

With right side facing, shape neck as follows:

Next row: pattern 22 / 23 / 24. Turn, leaving the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Continue on these 22 / 23 / 24 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following alternate row until 17 / 18 / 19 stitches remain.

Continue working straight in the pattern until Front matches Back at the armhole edge.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 / 9 / 9 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 9 / 9 / 10 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

With right side facing, rejoin the wool to the remaining stitches; cast off the centre 13 / 14 / 15 stitches, and pattern to the end.
Finish to correspond with the other shoulder.

Sleeves

Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles cast on 32 / 36 / 36 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 3 / 2 / 2 stitches across on the last row.
[35 / 38 / 38 sts].

Change to No 3 (6½ mm) needles and work in the rib pattern as for the Back, shaping the sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 11th, and then every following 8th row until there are 51 / 54 / 54 stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made.

Continue working straight in the pattern until the Sleeve seam measures 18½ / 19 / 19 inches.

With right sides facing shape top by casting off 3 / 3 / 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 17 / 22 / 22 stitches remain.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end every row until 13 / 14 / 14 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neck Ribbing

Join the right shoulder seam.
Using No 5 (5½ mm) needles, with right side facing, start at the left shoulder and pick up and knit 17 stitches down left side of neck 13 / 14 / 15 stitches across centre front, 17 stitches up right side of neck, and 23 / 24 / 25 stitches across back.
[70 / 72 / 74 sts].

Work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Do not press.
When making up, use flat edge to edge seams, and perhaps a toning 3 or 4ply yarn for the sewing.
Join the left shoulder and neck ribbing.
Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Fold the neck ribbing in half to the wrong side and slip-hem in position.
Carefully press the seams lightly.

Materials

Chunky yarn:
21 / 23 / 23 x 2oz balls in colour "Water Green".

Pair each of No 5 (5½ mm) and No 3 (6½mm) needles.

Tension

14sts and 18 rows to four inches on No 3 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
37-38 / 39-40 / 41-42 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 25 / 25½ / 25½ inches;
sleeve seam: 18½ / 19 / 19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was a super chunky/bulky pure wool yarn.
It came in 2oz (57g) hanks at about 54 yards or 49 metres.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

As this is a bag, you have lots of scope as to what yarn you use, and you don't need to worry too much about the tension - it will simply affect the final dimensions of the bag.

Front and Back alike

Using No 12 (2¾ mm) needles and blue colour (B) cast on 74 stitches, and work in 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 * m1, rib 4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; m1, rib 3.
[92 sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work as follows:
Next row: * knit.
Next row: p2, * k1w, k6, k1w, p2; repeat from * to end.
Next row: Using gold colour (G), k2, * sl1 dropping the extra loop (made with the k1w of previous round), k6, sl1 dropping the extra loop, k2; repeat from * to end.

Now continue in pattern as follows:
1st and 3rd rows (wrong side facing): using G, p2, * sl1, yb, k6, yfd, sl1, p2; repeat from * to end.
2nd and 4th rows: using G, k2, * sl1, yfd, p6, yb, sl1, k2; repeat from * to end.
5th row: using G, p2, * sl1, yb, k1w, k4, k1w, yfd, sl1, p2; repeat from * to end.
6th row: using B, k2, * drop the slipped stitch and hold to front of work, slip the next stitch dropping the extra loop as before, k2, pick up and knit the slipped stitch taking care not to twist the stitch; knit the 5th loop on left needle leaving that loop on the needle, k2, sl1 as before, then drop the long loop off needle, k2; repeat from * to end.

[Editor's Note: Row 6 seems a lot more complicated to describe than it is to execute. You are basically working a known technique for cabling single stitches without using a cable needle. This has the effect of crossing the "long" stitches to the right and to the left as you can see them in the photo.

7th and 9th rows: using B, as 1st.
8th and 10th rows: using B, as 2nd.
11th row: using B as 5th.
12th row: using G, as 6th.

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Repeat them until work measures 13 inches from the start of the pattern, ending with a 6th pattern row.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press pieces lightly on the wrong side following the instructions on the ball band omitting k1/p1 rib.
Join cast-off edges, then join side seams for 8 inches from the lower edge, leaving a side slit.
Fold rib in half and catch down lightly on the wrong side; insert rulers and neaten ends.
With 5 strands of each colour 108 inches long for each handle, make a tightly twisted cord. Neaten ends, then sew in position from base of side slit to upper edge on each side.
Press seams lightly.

[Editor's Note:You might want to think about what threads you use for the handles. They really need to be quite strong and not stretchy, so you may want to use a different fibre from the one with which you made the bag.

Materials

Double Knitting 50g balls:
3 in Blue (B)
2 in gold (G)

A pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 8 (4mm) needles.

Wooden rulers to stiffen the top edge.
[Editor's note: Innovative!]

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

Width: 13½ inches
Depth: 14 inches

Abbreviations:

k: knit
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the horizontal loop lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it.
sl1: slip 1 stitch
yfd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work.
yb: yarn back - take the yarn to the back of the work.
k1w: knit 1 stitch wrapping the yarn twice round the needle.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please EMAIL ME and I will try and assist.